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The Hundred Foot Washes are the low land lying between the New and Old Bedford Rivers, the main connections in the great drainage system of the Fens. They are about a hundred metres wide, and thirty miles long, stretching from Earith in the south to Devner Sluice near Downham Market in the north.
The two rivers are totally straight, and only three roads cross the washes, which are often allowed to flood during the winter to take pressure off the rest of the river system. The wetland created is home to thousands of wading birds. It's an odd landscape this: one is simultaneously awed by the achievement of Vermuyden and his successors in draining the fens, and perilously aware of just how tiny human life is in this landscape of rivers, and black soil, and sky.
The A142 from Ely to Chatteris crosses the washes on a great concrete viaduct, raised above all but the worst floods. Just to the east of this road (which is perpetually busy, and apparently one of the most dangerous in the country) is the little village of Mepal, and right on the northern edge of the village is the church of St Mary.
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It sits in a pleasant little churchyard, though one is still aware of the thundering traffic just to the west and the great banks of the New Bedford River loom a stone's throw to the north. On the day we visited, it was full of blossom: cherry, almond and perhaps even a Glastonbury Thorn.
The church itself is tiny - not much more than a chapel. There is no tower, just a little bell-cote on the west wall. At first sight, it is entirely Victorian - however, the chancel is obviously older.
Pevsner reveals that there is an Early English core from the early 14th century, but successive restorations in 1849, 1876 and 1905 have stripped away almost everything old. There were no keyholders listed, so we peered sadly through the chancel windows and then moved on.
St Mary was locked when we visited - there are no keyholders listed.